Monday 13 June 2011

Travel whimsy



"I keep seeing it and thinking it's exactly the sort of thing I should be looking at. But then never looking at it. What a chump."

In need of short, salient snippets of travel whimsy on an almost daily basis?

I'll put a few of the best ones here, but for now you can pootle along to leophillips.tumblr.com



Chechnya, and why Ramzan Kadyrov is my hero. Or not.

Succeeding what was left of his father (violently assassinated in an explosion that ripped through Grozny’s main stadium), Ramzan Kadyrov has recently convinced Dutch footballing legend Ruud Gullit into accepting the role of head coach at local Russian Premier League team Terek. It must be the same persuasion which this week brought a Brazil team featuring players who won the 2002 World Cup to play a game here, ostensibly as a “mark of respect” to the Chechen people. Gullit must presumably be hoping Kadyrov can work his considerable magic on the Dutchman’s own family, who were ‘unable to settle’ when he was in his last coaching position. In Los Angeles.

For now though, one of the world’s few (and the former Soviet Union’s many) fantastic Bond villain-esque characters has contented himself with playing a key role in this friendly kick about, before treating those gathered to a traditional Chechen dance at half time. You really couldn’t make it up.

Not merely a stooge of Medvedev (who in turn is very much a stooge of Putin’s), Kadyrov controls a volatile republic in a dangerous and complex area of the world in what is, admittedly, probably the only way possible. Even with Russian backing, no shrinking violet is going to last long here. Along with shameful views on women’s rights (who are the property of their husband), a large percentage of Chechnya’s violent and fatal crime is attributed to his henchmen, and that isn’t forgetting what could be his own personal chapter of alleged human rights abuses. Still, I suppose he’d make the trains run on time. If there were any.

That is unfair actually, there are trains operating here. Though access for foreigners is complicated to say the least, not least because of the tribal nature of the north Caucusus and the protection and danger money that has to be spent along the way. The “World’s Most Travelled Man”, Charles Veley, was rumoured to have spent tens of thousands of Euros just to safeguard himself for a few hours as he was taken in and out of Chechnya safely. More money than sense perhaps, but who wants to be the world’s most sensible man?

Sunday 27 February 2011

Travel whimsy



"The word skullduggery so close to Huck Finn-ery blew my tiny mind."

In need of short, salient snippets of travel whimsy on an almost daily basis?

I'll put a few of the best ones here, but for now you can pootle along to leophillips.tumblr.com



Oblivia

I think this ['The Happy Isles of Oceania', by Paul Theroux] was the first piece of travel writing that I ever read that didn’t paint everything with a rosy glow. The father of Louis (and Marcel), Paul Theroux set off around rather a lot of the South Pacific islands during the time of his divorce, with the minimum of kit aboard his one-man inflatable dinghy.

He was in one of the most beautiful places in the world - and I remember him pretty much hating everywhere he went. Finding squalor and thievery, vandalism and skulduggery, it was something of a revelation for me and struck a chord with some of the places I’ve been in the world. Far from this being a trip of idyllic Huck Finn-ery (although strictly speaking, that story itself wasn’t so idyllic), we find an example of how difficult travel can be if thoughts weigh heavy on top of you - and the effort it takes to turn things around in places that don’t unfurl themselves to you as you had hoped the might. The title itself really is something of a misnomer, and this book does well to shatter the illusion that people have about getting away from it all.

Besides, getting away from it all is something reserved for holidays - this is about travel, and if you look at the etymology of the word itself (which I’m sure I will go into in the future whether you like it or not), you begin to understand the difference.